Cops and Rain Storms

Wednesday 24th September 2014


Away at 10am after a decent Turkish breakfast. The Asur Otel boasts a fine set of international credentials. I note that Wales is included, though not Scotland. We are heading for Mount Nemrut near the Euphrates River in central Anatolia. It's a long ride, almost 400 miles away.

 
International hotel

Van is a nightmare to get out of. The other two lose me at the first set of lights and we don't join up again until the first petrol stop 100km down the road.
My route takes me along the south shore of Lake Van. Once out of the city there is little traffic and riding the wide highway is a real pleasure.

I have to say that I much prefer riding alone, setting my own pace. I can stop when I see a good photo opportunity and don't have to play catch up all the time. Very peaceful.

 
On the south shore of Lake Van
The road veers south away from the lake and through the mountains for a time. I am stopped four times at police roadblocks today. The first very friendly, many handshakes and photos taken. They are interested in my route and make suggestions as to the best way to go.
 
I am waved on at the next roadblock when they see the foreign plate. It's a high security area here what with the PKK and the proximity of the Iraqi and Syrian borders, but I am never asked for papers or given a shakedown.

 
Stop in the name of the law


Friendly cop lends me his cap and radio for the photo shoot

I pass a big group of nomads in the mountains when the road loops away from the lake shore. Donkeys, kids and dogs all over the road. Men riding, the rest walking.

The road is a sweeping 4 lane highway, mostly good surfaces. Many section are new or still in the process of building. There are new tunnels that are open to traffic though no lights have yet been installed and there is no lane marking.

 
New tunnels

It is very windy. I pass a sign for Batman. Approaching  Diyarbakir the storm clouds are gathering. I've lost the other two again, they are behind me I think. I'm very high up here and the wind is gale force, making riding quite difficult.

 
Holy Smokes, Batman

Then the rain starts to pour down. I take refuge at a service station. I still have a few hundred kilometres to go if I am to reach the ferry before dark.

I hammer on to Severek and take a right following signs for the ferry. This will take me across the Euphrates River valley that has been flooded since the Ataturk dam was built in the 80s. The lake is huge (817 square kilometres - wiki) and very crinkly.

This is the northern part of the ancient region of Mesopotamia the cradle of civilisation. I crossed the Tigris River earlier, around Batman.

The ferry will take me across into the Adiyaman region. I arrive at 6:30pm as the sun is going down. A new bridge is half built here so the ferry will soon be out of business. The loo at the tea shack is not the most welcoming, tough in a rain storm.

 
Waiting for the ferry by the new bridge that will replace it

Not the greatest of facilities
The track down to the landing stage is unpaved and horrendous. There is a queue of cars and vans waiting. The next ferry will be around 7pm. I stop at the tea shack above the landing and wait.

After 15 minutes the other two poll up. By the time we board the very old and creaky tub it is full dark. The 30km ride up to the base of Mount Nemrut is tough. The road is small and we can see nothing of the surrounding countryside, just ride in the tunnel of light from the head lamp.
The Karadut Pansiyon is welcoming though. It is 40TL each for B&B and a chicken barbecue dinner is around 20TL. We wolf it down with Efes and wine, very hungry after a long day covering 660km from Van.

It is strange being in the middle of nowhere with no idea of the surroundings. The crickets chirrup, the heavens are filled with stars, there is an altitude chill to the air, but what it looks like will have to wait for the morning. 


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